Hvar at a glance
Hvar is a long, narrow island off the Dalmatian coast, reached by ferry from Split. It has three main bases: Hvar Town on the west, Stari Grad in the north and Jelsa on the east side. Beyond them are small villages, lavender fields, vineyards and rocky coves. The island suits beach time, easy sightseeing and boat trips, and works well as one stop on a wider Croatia itinerary.
Getting to Hvar
Most visitors arrive from Split. There are two main kinds of boat, and they land in different places.
- Catamaran (passenger only): A faster service that usually goes to Hvar Town, taking roughly an hour. It does not carry cars.
- Car ferry: A slower service that lands at Stari Grad, taking around two hours, and carries vehicles. From there, a road leads across the island to Hvar Town and Jelsa.
Timetables change by season and some sailings sell out in summer. Check current schedules with the operator, such as Jadrolinija, and book vehicle space early. There are also seasonal connections from other towns such as Dubrovnik and Korčula; verify before planning around them.
How long do you need on Hvar?
Two nights is a workable minimum for Hvar Town and a boat trip. Three or four nights lets you add Stari Grad and the interior without rushing. A single day trip from Split is possible but covers little more than the main town and a swim. Many guides suggest three to four nights if the island is a priority.
Best time to visit
Late spring and early autumn are often the most pleasant, with warm sea and fewer crowds. July and August are hot and busy, and prices rise. For handling Mediterranean summer crowds, see places to travel in July. Lavender blooms in early summer, usually around June and July. Some businesses close in winter, so the island is quiet then.
Where to stay on Hvar
- Hvar Town: The busiest base, with restaurants, nightlife, the harbour and boat departures. Good if you want everything on foot, but loud and pricey in peak season.
- Stari Grad: A calmer, historic town near the car ferry. A good choice for a quieter stay and for exploring the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO-listed agricultural landscape.
- Jelsa: A relaxed small town with pebble beaches, a good option for families and those wanting less nightlife.
- Smaller villages and coves: Suited to those with a car or scooter who prefer isolation.
Book early for July and August.
Getting around the island
Buses link the main towns, but frequency is limited and varies by season. Taxis operate on the island, and pre-booked transfers are common. Ride-hailing apps such as Uber or Bolt may be patchy or unavailable, so do not rely on them; check the apps on arrival. Many visitors rent a car, scooter or bike, though the roads can be narrow and parking in town is tight. In Hvar Town you can walk almost everywhere.
Things to do
- Hvar Town: Walk the main square, visit the Franciscan monastery and climb to the Fortica (Spanish Fortress) for views over the harbour and islands.
- Stari Grad: Wander the old streets, see the Tvrdalj fortified house of the poet Petar Hektorović and look at the plain’s vineyards and olive groves.
- Boat trips: Water taxis go from Hvar Town to the Pakleni islands, a chain of small wooded islands with swimming spots and beach restaurants. Full-day boat tours sometimes include the Blue Cave on nearby Biševo or other islands.
- Jelsa and the villages: Good for a relaxed lunch and swimming away from the main crowds.
Beaches
Beaches on Hvar are mostly pebble, rock or concrete platforms rather than sand. Water shoes make entering the sea more comfortable. Our island hopping packing list covers other boat-day gear. The Pakleni islands offer some of the more scenic swimming. Beach clubs near Hvar Town charge for sunbeds, and prices vary. Look for quieter coves outside peak hours.
Is Hvar still a party island?
Hvar Town still has a nightlife scene, especially in summer, with beach clubs and late bars. But the island has been working to encourage a quieter, more upmarket image, and local rules have addressed disorderly behaviour. If you want to avoid it, stay in Stari Grad or Jelsa. If you want to join in, Hvar Town is where it happens. Expect this to change from year to year.
Fitting Hvar into a bigger trip
Hvar fits naturally between Split and Dubrovnik, or alongside Korčula. For an overall route and for choosing between islands and national parks, see the Croatia itinerary.
FAQ
What is the best place to stay on Hvar? Hvar Town for nightlife and convenience, Stari Grad for quiet and history, Jelsa for a relaxed beach stay.
Do I need a car? Not if you stay in Hvar Town and use water taxis. A car helps for exploring the island in more depth.
Is Hvar expensive? It is among the pricier destinations in Croatia, particularly in July and August.